Behind the plate: Colby Rasavong presents approachable amazing food

At Bad Idea, the restaurant-wine bar housed in a former East Nashville church, Executive Chef Colby Rasavong has been busy wowing guests.

His singular dishes represent a confluence of his Laotian heritage (he is a first generation Laotian-American born and raised in the South) and his culinary training in French techniques (realizing, also, the French influence from the colonial era on Southeast Asian cuisines) blended with seasonal ingredients available in Middle Tennessee.

He’s already enjoyed an extraordinary career—in 2022, StarChefs named him a Nashville Rising Star—and he shares how he arrived at this place, making this very personal food.

Your journey as a chef: When did you realize this would be your path and passion?

I grew up in my parents’ restaurants, which were Thai. I have early memories of being like 5 or 6 years old, at the counter, getting people their drinks from the soda machine. This was in North Carolina. I didn’t take cooking seriously until I was 16. I was placed in a culinary arts vocational education class in high school. I had no real experience of American food since we ate Laotian food at home, so when our teacher gave us our first recipe to make—scratch biscuits—I was perplexed. But I really enjoyed making them. And they were good! It opened up a new world. The light went off—I am going into culinary!

My first professional job was at Kayne Prime. When Husk Nashville was getting ready to open, Sean (Brock) hired me, and I embarked on a career with him: Three years at Husk and six years at McCrady’s in Charleston. Then I went to New York to learn a different pace and style. I helped open a French bistro, Little King. When the pandemic hit and things were shutting down everywhere, Sean and I reconnected. He asked me to come back to Nashville to be chef de cuisine for Audrey.

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I’d been having conversations with Alex (Burch) about what I wanted to do and be. And, I said, “No more fine dining.” I was done with it. I love the details, but it just burns out the staff. I want to give back to the community, make a place that feels more like home—cool, relaxed, and fun. I don’t want to be worrying about how the silverware and glasses are aligned. I felt like we were focusing too much on the food, and in the process, we forgot about the guest experience. Let the food speak for itself. Alex felt the same way, and I came on board for Bad Idea.

Who have been the mentors most influential and nurturing to you?

Sean and his chef de cuisines, for sure.  At McCrady’s, Daniel Heinze helped guide me at a young age. He’d preach, “Take your time. Enjoy the process.” I had gotten my first executive chef job at age 27, and I didn’t know who I was, as a chef. I was making a mixture of everything I’d seen. He’d tell me to take it to heart, and let it come to me. And it did.

John Sleasman, also at McCrady’s, taught me about work ethic. He showed me how to be more efficient, how to be a great leader and communicate well.

Tell us about creating the menu for Bad Idea: How it has become a personal expression of your heritage and training.

I was so fortunate to do a residency at Fulgurances in New York, where I was given the creative license to design a tasting menu. They told me to cook what you feel. It was fun and freeing. It gave me the opportunity to test ideas and recipes that spoke to who I am and what I want to be. At the end of the residency, I had the concept and recipes for Bad Idea. My next step was to build the team.

What ingredient, besides salt, black pepper and butter, would you feel lost without? Do you have a “secret” ingredient?

Sean and I would often talk about flavor enhancers—what’s the next garam, salt or acid? For me, it is fish sauce—a very pure, straightforward preparation of fish-salt-water—no bulk fillers. There is a Laotian brand made close to where my family is from that I prefer. Chilis are also important to me. Not simply for the spice, or heat, but for their fruitiness. I’ll also mention durian. I never enjoyed it growing up; that came later in life. It can be so polarizing, but when you learn how to work with it, get past the odors, and to its true flavors, it is amazing.

What is your favorite kitchen tool?

I love our Combi oven. It is very expensive, but worth it. At a restaurant like ours, you go through a lot of rice. I have our recipe figured out by weight for both rice and water, and the Combi makes perfect rice every time!

Soon it will be spring: When that produce of the season becomes available, what are you planning to introduce?

I’m already planning to get Laotian herbs into the ground. There is a variety of Holy Basil that has a super-sweet and menthol taste that I am excited to grow. It’s unlike any other basil you may have tried.

For first-time guests at Bad Idea, what dish is a “must-have?”

That would have to be the scallop-stuffed crepe. It’s almost selfish, but I really made it for me. With its uncommon texture and flavor, I didn’t expect it to be so widely loved by others. Now, there would be uproar if we ever took it off the menu.

What goals do you have for yourself as a chef?

I want to always be working every day to make a better work environment for our team. Happy cooks make the best food. Happy servers give the best service. I want Bad Idea to be the place where our staff feels safe and supported.

Bad Idea

badideanashville.com, IG: @badideanashville.com

1021 Russell St. in East Nashville

Hours: 5 p.m.- 1 a.m. daily

Concept: Wine bar with chef-driven cuisine

Reservations: Accepted

Payment: Major credit cards accepted

Parking: On street

This article originally appeared on Nashville Tennessean: Behind the plate: Colby Rasavong presents approachable amazing food