‘Beef’: Steven Yeun and Ali Wong face off in ‘the funniest and boldest dark comedy since Atlanta’

Ronald Meyer
·3 min read
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Judging by the dispatches from Austin, the premiere of Netflix’s “Beef” was a highlight of this year’s South by Southwest. Created by Lee Sung Jin, whose credits include “Silicon Valley,” “Dave,” “Undone” and “Tuca & Bertie,” the comedy series follows a case of road rage that consumes the involved parties long after they return to their daily lives. 

Critics suggest the show’s strength largely resides in Lee’s ability to identify common ground between the dissimilar Danny (Steven Yeun), a struggling independent contractor, and Amy (Ali Wong), the successful owner of a high-end furniture store. Ben Travers (IndieWire) says the writers “cleverly infuse Danny and Amy’s class disparity into their burgeoning battle…without making it the central conflict” and calls the series “‘Falling Down’ split between two leads.” Jeremy Mathai (/Film) hails it as “the funniest and boldest dark comedy since ‘Atlanta.’”

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Even those wowed by the A24/Netflix dramedy admit the final episodes strain credulity, but most still feel leads Yeun and Wong make “Beef” a rewarding experience. Chase Hutchinson (The Playlist) writes, “It is the performances of Yeun and Wong that make ‘Beef’ work, even as the story can be a bit scattered the longer it goes on…being in freefall with Danny and Amy is precisely the point.” Travers agrees that “Lee’s scripts careen out of control over the final hour or so, setting the stakes too high for a resolution that demands a certain level of intimacy.” However, he adds, “Even when ‘Beef’ goes too far, it’s held together by Wong, Yeun, and the understanding that this kind of rage doesn’t always make sense.” 

SEE Ali Wong and Steven Yeun try to destroy each other’s lives in Netflix’s ‘BEEF’ trailer [Watch]

Angie Han (The Hollywood Reporter) calls Yeun’s character “a clenched fist–perpetually in anticipation of a coming blow, and ready to strike back at any time” and says Wong “has rarely been better.” She concludes that while “Beef” has “a hilarious premise on its face,” the show impacts for its “emphasis on the characters’ flawed humanity, and its disarming sense of empathy for their existential despair.” Cassondra Feltus (Black Girl Nerds) writes, “The powerful character study…digs deeper than one would expect, going beyond a petty rivalry into an introspective look at pent-up anger, sadness, and longing.” Feltus compares the show’s tone to that of “Atlanta,” “Fleabag” and “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia.”

“Beef” is currently ranked 14th by Gold Derby’s combined odds for Best Comedy Series. Yeun and Wong are seventh and 12th in Best Comedy Actor and Best Comedy Actress, respectively. Netflix released all 10 episodes of the series (which currently holds a perfect 100% freshness rating on Rotten Tomatoes) April 6. 

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