For almost a century, Oklahomans have been stirring up holiday traditions with Aunt Bill's Brown Candy

“Someday I am going to write a whole column about that dear old Aunt Bill and all the appetizing and unusual good things she used to cook.”

— Edna Vance Adams Mueller, writing as Aunt Susan, Dec. 1928

Back in the late 1920s, the Aunt Susan column was a daily proposition, covering all manner of house-making for its throng of readers.

Requests from readers were common, and it was a request from a newlywed that inspired Aunt Susan to reprint the Aunt Bill's recipe in 1929.

"A housekeeper tells me she made that grand candy of ours last year for her lover and now, since this same chap is her new husband, she wants to feed him on it in their own little new home, so won’t I please tell her again how to make Aunt Bill’s brown candy.”

Mueller published the recipe for Aunt Bill’s Brown Candy again in 1929 and each December for the 13 years she remained.

She eventually left for New York City, where she became food editor at McCall’s magazine and produced one of the country’s first cooking shows.

If you're looking to buy some Aunt Bill's Brown Candy, start at Woody Candy Co., which has been making it almost as long as The Oklahoman's been running the recipe.

The only more prominent name to come out of the food pages of The Oklahoman than Aunt Susan was Melba Lovelace of Melba's Swap Shop fame. Some time back in the 1980s, Melba received and mastered a microwave version of the confection, and we've run it ever since.

Melba used to call every year to make sure we got both versions of the recipe in the paper.

"It takes two people to make the original," she would fuss. "I kinda like the microwave version better anyway!"

Holidays are for tradition, and so we carry that one forward with two ways to make Aunt Bill's Brown Candy as written by Aunt Susan in 1928 and the microwave version from Melba Lovelace.

The recipe is ideal for teamwork, so recruit some family and have a Merry Christmas with this Oklahoma tradition.

AUNT BILL'S BROWN CANDY

• 3 pints white sugar, divided

• 1 pint whole milk (or cream if you feel that way)

• 1/4 pound butter

• 1 teaspoon soda

• 1 teaspoon vanilla

• 2 pounds nut meats (preferably pecans)

To begin with, let me tell you that the full recipe makes more than 6 pounds of candy, so you see, it is not as expensive as it may seem. You will find it much easier to manage if two of you are able to make it together, although of course this is not absolutely necessary for I've made loads of it alone.

First, pour one pint of the sugar into a heavy iron skillet and place it over low fire. Begin stirring with a wooden spoon and keep the sugar moving so that it will not scorch at all. It will take almost half an hour to completely melt all of the sugar, and at no time should it smoke or cook so fast that it turns dark. It should be about the color of light brown sugar syrup.

As soon as you have the sugar started to heat in the skillet, pour the remaining two pints of sugar together with the pint of milk or cream into a deep heavy kettle and set it over a low fire to cook along slowly while you are melting the sugar in the skillet.

As soon as all the sugar is melted, begin pouring it into the kettle of simmering milk and sugar, keeping it on very slow heat and stirring constantly. Now the real secret of mixing these ingredients is to pour a very fine stream from the skillet into the pan. Aunt Bill always said to pour a stream no larger than a knitting needle, while stirring across the bottom of the kettle at the same time.

Continue cooking and stirring until the mixture forms a firm ball when dropped into cold water. After this test is made, turn out the fire and immediately add the soda, stirring hard as it foams up. Soon as the soda is mixed, add the butter, allowing it to melt as you stir.

Now set the pan of candy off the stove, but not outdoors or in a cold place, for about 10 minutes, then add the vanilla and begin beating. Use a wooden spoon and beat until the mixture is thick and heavy, having a dull appearance instead of a glossy sheen.

Add the broken pecan meats and mix. Turn into buttered tin boxes or square pans, where it can be cut into squares when cooled. This candy stays moist and delicious indefinitely. Decorate the pieces of candy with halves of pecans, if desired.

SOURCE: Aunt Susan (Edna Vance Adams Mueller)

AUNT BILL'S MICROWAVE CANDY

• 2 cups sugar

• 1 teaspoon baking soda

• 1 cup buttermilk

• 3/4 cup margarine

• 1 teaspoon vanilla

• 2 cups chopped nuts

Butter 7- or 8-inch-square dish. In large microwave-safe bowl, combine sugar, baking soda, buttermilk and margarine. Cover with plastic wrap. Punch holes in plastic so steam can escape.

Microwave at 70% for 15 minutes. Stir and continue at 70% for 13 to 15 minutes until a soft ball forms in cold water — 236 F on candy thermometer. (Do not put thermometer in microwave oven.)

Add vanilla, beating with electric mixer until soft peaks form. Watch closely. Stir in nuts and pour into prepared dish. Cool, cut and enjoy.

SOURCE: Melba Lovelace

This article originally appeared on Oklahoman: Aunt Bill's Brown Candy makes its return in original and microwave forms