3 restaurants to try ASAP – from schnitzels to a tropical taco with a spicy personality

It seems Cincinnati is longing for bold new flavors these days. And a new smattering of restaurants is all too happy to provide them. I’m thinking about the Cuban/South Florida-themed restaurant Amador that I wrote about recently; the new Spanish-style tapas spot, Conserva, in Ludlow, Kentucky, and another tapas bar, called Livery, in Montgomery.

That’s fine with me.

The flavors and textures such places provide are a welcome change to tired palates like mine. Here are three new restaurants that focus on a broad array of flavors, from African and Caribbean, to Vietnamese and Japanese. I also included an old standby Hungarian restaurant that, while it's been around forever, deserves another turn in the spotlight.

Solstice (East Walnut Hills)

The latest addition to the tropical-theme subcategory can be found in East Walnut Hills, where Solstice, a new “tropical taco” joint came out swinging this month with a menu that isn't so much trying to adhere to tradition or authenticity, as it respectfully combines ingredients and inspirations from different cultures and cuisines. The manifestation of these mashups mostly comes in the form of tacos.

Hence the Spanish-style Zaragoza taco that combines grilled chicken tossed in tomato sauce and avocado; the Scarlet Ibis, named after the red bird of South America, with chickpeas; and the South Indian Tiger of Mysore (named for the Indian Muslim ruler of Mysore), with braised lamb seasoned with turmeric, ginger, garam masala and curry leaf.

While that Zaragoza taco I tried was a knockout, it was the O and No shrimp taco that sold me on Solstice after my first bite, with its peppery shrimp combined with creamy avocado coleslaw and banana pepper sauce. The addition of spicy avocado, cumin, ancho lime, chile, bell pepper, jicama and cabbage gave it a spicy, citrusy and crunchy personality that was almost as refreshing and complex as the mezcal infused "Mez Tai" with which I washed it down. (I should mention that Solstice is owned by the same people who own Anjou, an imaginative cocktail bar around the corner. Thus, the drink menu here is full of surprises).

The interior complements the food, a mishmash of color palates and textures; a corrugated metal bar is lined with luxuriously cushy stools. A television plays ESPN with the sound off while Peter Gabriel’s "Solsbury Hill" whispers through the dining room.

One more thing: Don't miss out on the ceviche. While the ceviche itself is a lovely balance of citrus and spice, the paper-thin yucca chips (co-owner Chris Wolfe told me he uses a mandoline to slice them) should give them a spot in the yucca chip hall of fame.

1544 Madison Road, East Walnut Hills, 513-872-1355, solsticecinci.com.

Laszlo's Iron Skillet (Union Township)

You pull into the rear parking lot of what appears to be an old house on Ohio Pike in Union Township as crowds of what you have to assume are regulars make their way in through a rear entrance. You sit down at a booth and gaze at a menu that contains the all-stars of Austro-Hungarian cuisine with a bit of a twist.

The schnitzels, popular in Hungary, are available in a variety of styles. The Hungarian schnitzel is straightforward with mushrooms and onions in the cuisine's signature paprika sauce, but there's also an Italian version topped with Parmesan cheese and garlic. And, I kid you not, a Cincinnati-style version with goetta and peppered cream cheese.

Yes, please.

Laszlo’s is a Greater Cincinnati institution that might not get the credit it deserves outside of its Union Township confines. But it’s worth a trip. Originally opened in Newtown in 1973, it relocated here in 2015 after its old location was destroyed by fire. The restaurant has plenty of accolades written by my predecessor Polly Campbell hanging on the wall. But it is still worthy of such praise.

While not exactly a Hungarian dish, I started out with the Saratoga chips, which sparked an argument between my wife, Amy, and I since Amy has never quite understood why southern Ohioans insist on ordering what she refers to simply as “potato chips” (can you believe that?) for an appetizer. I try to explain to her that Saratoga chips are different. That they are usually cooked in-house to a golden brown with a tender center, and that it is required you dip them in barbecue sauce. I don’t think I changed her mind, but, boy, did the ones at Laszlo’s transcend any mere potato chip I've ever tasted.

For an entree, I went with the sauerbraten, which was wonderfully warming, even though it was around 95 degrees outside. The potato pancake that came alongside was dense and crispy, the steamed cabbage sweet and sour. I also ordered a side of warm German potato salad with bits of bacon. It was mild compared to other, far more sour, German potato salads I’ve tried but still satisfying. While the sauerbraten was excellent, I need to go back to try some of the house specialties, including the chicken paprikash, which is simmered in paprika stock and served with sour cream over spaetzle, as well the combo platter of Hungarian goulash, stuffed cabbage and wiener schnitzel.

1020 Ohio Pike, Union Township, 513-561-6776, laszlosironskillet.com

Hawker's Alley (Downtown)

Another cuisine that Cincinnati has embraced in recent years is Asian in all of its various forms. From the Japanese ramen and Korean katsu sandwich at Mochiko, to the tasty Korean fried chicken at Decibel, our palates are always hungry for more.

Now, from the minds of Lalo comes Hawker’s Alley, which specializes in Asian street food. Named after the popular Hawker markets of Singapore, the sit-down restaurant offers Korean-inspired katsu platters (you can choose from either chicken or pork), Japanese ramen and pho, as well as a selection of American-style hamburgers. There are also plenty of selections for vegetarians, including "Asian croquettes" with mashed potatoes and vegetables, crispy mushrooms and veggie and tofu skewers.

The chicken katsu I tried on a recent visit was nicely cooked, its meat still juicy beneath the breading. But it was the Japanese barbecue sauce blended with sesame oil and mayonnaise the provided its kicky personality. It was served with soft, sticky rice and a citrus spiked coleslaw that was filling without me asking, "Why, why Lord did I overdo it again?"

28 E. Court St., Downtown, 513-421-2326, hawkersalley.com.

This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Cincinnati restaurants to try ASAP: Solstice, Laszlo's, Hawker's Alley