14 things to do in SW Oregon's Illinois Valley, from swimming holes to marble caves
My family moved to the Illinois Valley in Oregon's southwest corner when I was just a few years old, where my conscious memories begin and my formative years flew by. Growing up in one of Oregon’s most lush and simultaneously rugged areas, the same valley where my mother spent her own childhood, I find myself often thinking about the river valleys and mountains of home no matter how far I travel today.
The perfect outdoor playground, the Illinois Valley has everything to offer in the realm of recreation, from hiking mountaintops to swimming in emerald pools and waterfalls or even stepping into the depths of a cave hundreds of feet below the earth’s surface. If you haven’t found your way to the magic hidden in Oregon’s southwest corner yet, I highly recommend it for folks of all ages.
For inspiration on your next outdoor itinerary, here are my top suggestions on can’t-miss destinations in the Illinois Valley. This journey ranges from Selma to just shy of the California state line and includes a variety of destinations from lush old growth forest hikes to caverns hidden beneath the earth's surface and swimming holes that will make you swear off of public pools forever.
Lake Selmac
To start this list, I have to go with a longtime valley classic, Lake Selmac, just a few miles down Lakeshore Drive in Selma. While this freshwater lake wasn’t always the happening place to be, it’s been spruced up over the last few years and is now a delightful place to relax for the sunset or try and catch a record-breaking bass. Boating rentals, camping, an adorable (and well-stocked) country store and even a disc golf course are just a few of the recreation options at Lake Selmac.
Kerby Peak Trail
Albeit steep, the Kerby Peak Trail makes up for it's difficulty with mind boggling panoramic views of the Illinois Valley, located just outside of Selma but more than 3,000 feet in elevation. Roughly 7 miles out and back, this trail is not to be taken lightly but promises sweeping views of wildflowers, ancient rock formations and just about everything else in the area.
Listen to the Explore Oregon PodcastSleep in a treehouse, explore marble caves in the Illinois Valley
Crystal Kaleidoscope
OK, at the risk of breaking habit too quickly, my second stop isn’t technically an outdoor destination, but is worth the visit for any rockhound or lover of shiny things. Crystal Kaleidoscope is the largest rock shop in southern Oregon and has both an indoor and outdoor gallery to peruse to find a mineral of your liking or learn about local geology. Shop around for the perfect crystal or admire the owner’s personal collection of rare stones while taking an air-conditioned break from the heat.
Eight Dollar Mountain (Babyfoot Lake, Green Bridge, Little Falls)
Eight Dollar Mountain, just off the Redwood Highway along 8 Dollar Road, has a treasure trove of places to explore, from swimming in the refreshing pools at the Green Bridge or hiking to an intricate mapping of waterfalls and wildflowers on the Little Falls Trail. Pack the car with snacks, fill up the gas tank and spend a full day exploring the stops along this (mostly paved, but sometimes gravel) road as it travels deeper into the unique Kalimiopsis wilderness. My personal favorite venture on this road is a hike to Babyfoot Lake – right around 2.5 miles with a gentle 550 elevation gain. This out and back trail will get your steps in for the day and reward you with a gorgeous blue lake at the end.
Illinois River Road
Ah, the infamous Illinois River Road. Because of its sheer popularity and genuinely stellar swimming holes, I have to include this road on the list to be true to the valley. But, on that same note, I also have to include this disclaimer: Recreate at (and drive down in general) the Illinois River Road at your own risk and practice extreme caution in this area. The journey to all destinations on this drive are along an incredibly steep, pothole-riddled and treacherous road that is not for the meager – or the inebriated. Alcohol is not allowed anywhere along the river road, but it's not unusual to encounter a couple of drunk drivers whipping around corners that were already dangerous.
Phew. OK, now that you know what you’re getting into, if you’re still interested in traversing the Illinois River Road, I can’t stress enough that it is totally worth the trip; there are dozens of gorgeous swimming holes to cool off in after the stressful drive. Diver’s Hole, Sixmile, Store Gulch and Echo Beach are just a handful of parks along the drive to jump in, float in the sun or relax on the rocky beaches with friends.
For the hikers out there, the Illinois River Trail is hard to beat in terms of river views and was recently cleared for thru-hikes thanks to the Siskiyou Mountain Club.
Please enjoy this area responsibly and safely so the locals can continue to enjoy it with you!
Oregon Caves
Every year of school, we loaded onto a bus and took the most exciting fieldtrip of the year: venturing down, down and farther down into the chilly depths of the Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve. Even if you’ve been before, a cave tour or quick hike up to the “big tree” never disappoints, and I love to hear the story about Elijah Davidson and his sweet dog, Bruno. You’ll have to book a tour to hear the whole thing. Don’t forget to bring a jacket, as the cave is a crisp 44 degrees year-round. For folks interested in extra adventure, check out the off-trail caving tour – not suited for those with claustrophobia.
It’s A Burl
This next stop off Redwood Highway in Kerby, one of the most magical places the Illinois Valley has to offer, is riddled with secret nooks and crannies and fairies and wizards watching you from the treetops. No, seriously – It’s A Burl, a woodworking yard, gallery and shop is covered in all sorts of mystical wonders, with redwood wizard faces perched in trees and flying driftwood cars hanging from the rafters of hand-crafted treehouses, each with a different story and theme. From wooden mirrors to walking sticks to full-sized furniture and a pottery studio, this gallery will keep patrons of all ages entranced for hours.
Grayback Interpretive Trail
Along Highway 46 toward the Oregon Caves is another lush gem of the valley, shortened by local slang to simply Grayback. This interpretive trail is blanketed with a variety of trees and wildflowers that make up the diverse ecosystem of the Illinois Valley, snaking along both Sucker Creek and Grayback Creek. Both are great for a quick dip or getting your toes wet, but only on the hottest of summer days, as the water in both creeks is cold enough to provide quite a shock year-round.
Forks State Park
A great local spot for swimming just south of Cave Junction, Forks State Park is a classic stop for picnics and river days. Featuring gazebos, walking trails and picnic tables, this park showcases where the east and west forks of the Illinois River collide. There are several deep pools and rope swings to enjoy the water. The latest addition to the park is a 9-hole disc golf course, which can be enjoyed year-round and is free to play.
Rough n’ Ready Botanical Wayside
Hidden at the end of a passing lane just south of the Illinois Valley Airport on Redwood Highway, this area is full of both designated trails and choose-your-own-adventure walking paths to explore the unique and ecologically diverse landscape. It’s a great spot for wildflowers in early summer or early morning hikes on a hot day. Exploration is permitted by foot traffic only, in order to protect those delicate plant and animal species. Stop and visit the Siskiyou Smokejumper Base and Museum and famous Moon Tree on the way.
Bolan Lake / Tanner Lakes
Climbing up in altitude, Bolan Lake is high above the Illinois Valley, featuring a campsite, picnic area and gorgeous mountain lake to swim in during the summer. Beautiful and often uncrowded, this lake is great for a day trip when the temperatures are skyrocketing or even a winter venture to see the icy tundra that the lake surface becomes. While worth the journey, it’s important to note the drive to Bolan Lake is best for seasoned drivers and durable vehicles, passing both steep cliffs and some rough terrain on the way up. Tanner Lakes are nearby in the Siskiyou Mountains, a collection of beautiful wild alpine lakes that can be reached with a short hike or climb up and around to the Tanner Mountain Summit.
Out n’ About Treehouse Resort
A playground perfect for children and adults who want to feel like a child again, Out n’ About Treehouse Resort – or Treesort – is a must-stop when visiting the valley. Nestled in the woods of Takilma, I spent every summer of my childhood celebrating the fourth of July at the Treehouse, swimming in their freshwater pool and dancing the night away to live music among the trees. Breathtaking treehouse designs, ziplining courses, horseback riding and guided rafting tours are just a few of the recreational opportunities at this wooded resort.
East Fork Illinois / Black Butte Trail
When driving into Cave Junction, the mountain range you can see far in the distance holds the Siskiyou Wilderness, with gems such as Raspberry Lake, Devil's Punchbowl and Clear Creek. One outstanding trail in the area is the Black Butte Trail. Following the East Fork of the Illinois River, follow signage down to the depths of the valley and enjoy dozens of stellar swimming holes and a gorgeous walk through the canyon. The trail will eventually spit you out again back in Takilma.
Lone Mountain / Historic Wimer Road
When I have to say goodbye to the valley for any period, I like to take a drive-up Lone Mountain Road and get a view of the rolling mountains and trees from a higher perspective. Once known as the Wimer Road, this gravel drive used to be the main highway for connecting the Oregon valley to the beaches of California near Crescent City. Today, you can still make the trip all the way to the ocean, stop along the creek for a quick swim or pull over at one of the many turnouts to enjoy the crisp valley views. From mountain peaks to burn scars to fish-filled streams, it’s quite the beauty to admire.
Skyla Patton is an outdoor reporter and multimedia storyteller. She can be reached at spatton@gannett.com and on Twitter @ganjajournalist.
This article originally appeared on Salem Statesman Journal: Oregon's Illinois Valley: Visit swimming holes, marble caves
