10 Best dishes to try at new Naples, Marco Island and Bonita Springs restaurants - JLB review
This week, we’re rounding up JLB's top 10 favorite dishes from Naples, Marco and Bonita’s new restaurants.
For those of you counting, we also list two honorable mentions whose inclusions come with caveats: one is new-ish to me, and maybe you too, but we've not featured it in the paper. The other features rotating menus, less an issue for summer, but when it first opened, its offerings varied weekly and by day.
Restaurants are listed alphabetically, not preferentially.
Boutique Sweet Couple
The dish: Hazelnut dacquoise, aka Kyiv cake, $15
Delicious no matter what it’s called. Tish Boyle, a frequent Naples visitor and Pastry Arts Magazine's managing editor, explains the differences between the two: Kyiv cake is a less refined version of a hazelnut dacquoise; most versions have two layers of baked nut meringue; French dacquoise usually three or four layers. And the Kyiv cake always has either a chocolate glaze or chocolate buttercream topping. “The French tend to be pretty rigid about their classics gateaux, with the variations coming in the form of garnish rather than composition. The Kyiv cake seems to have lots more variations, but the two versions are very similar.” (11121 Health Park Blvd., Naples; 239-238-8081; find them on Instagram)
Casa Cotzelli
The dish: Spaghetti burro alici, $18
Sometimes, the simplest thing on the menu is the best. Spaghetti tossed with anchovy butter might be the comfort dish of the year. When visiting, we shared two kinds of pasta; the other was seafood linguine. Sure, the latter was terrific, loaded with mussels, calamari, clams and shrimp, but I would happily eat the spaghetti every day. Reservations are required as the restaurant is in a gated community; IslandWalk’s security team will not let you proceed without your name on the list. (6175 Towncenter Circle, North Naples; 239-592-5055; casacotzelli.com)
Casa Neri
The dish: Salumi di Mare, $26 for a small size
In my review, I called it the seafood dish of the year; six months later, I stand by that statement, especially after trying (and sending back) an uptown restaurant's riff. This non-boring pescatarian board boasts slices of succulent smoked swordfish, smoked tuna plus a beet juice-citrus marinated salmon served with an egg-free aioli for dipping made from sunflower oil and reserved water from its octopus preparation. (382 Fifth Ave. S.; Naples; 239-963-9060; casanerinaples.com)
DiGusto
The dish: Burrata, prosciutto and arugula salad, $22
Aside from vegans, who doesn’t love billowy burrata? I very much liked this main course salad during a recent lunch visit. Good for solo diners or shareable for two when ordering other courses. (4180 Tamiami Trail N., Naples; 239-228-9414; digustoitaly.com)
Fernweh Ice Cream
The dish: "Blueberry Vineyard" sorbet infused with wine, $10
In a town full of ice cream parlors serving cloying mass-produced varieties, Fernweh is different because it handcrafts each sophisticated flavor daily using premium ingredients, and you can taste the difference. Retired chemistry teacher Jessica Hernandez and chef-husband Job are masters of meticulously precise recipes whose ingredients are measured in grams for exactness. Every delish spoonful proves there’s no better way to refresh and cool down in this heat. (2740 Bayshore Drive, East Naples; fernwehicecream.com)
Kim-Chi Grill
The dish: Chicken bulgogi, $18
Aristotle is credited with the phrase, “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.” But is it? After biting each of the six components in this bowl ― all stand-alone delicious ― I broke the perfectly poached egg then slathered it over the rice, and mixed everything together. Aristotle is right: It’s even more fantastic. If I lived closer by a half-hour, this Korean-Asian fusion cafe would be a regular stop. (3300 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs; 239-676-1910; kimchigrillbonita.com)
The Med
The dish: Octopus a modo mio, $22
Meltingly tender and served in a sumptuous well-balanced puttanesca sauce chockful of the sea creature, the only thing that would possibly make it better? Serving it with linguine. While that's not a current menu option, it's merely a request for Chef Tommy Francavilla, who's also a co-owner with Mary Brandt. Hint hint. (3929 Bayshore Drive, East Naples; 239-307-4755; themednaples.com)
Old Vines Supper Club
The dish: Potato-crusted crab salad
My favorite bite of all only merits an honorable mention? Pourquoi? you might be asking. Because it was served during a multicourse wine-pairing second visit dinner at this intimate prix-fixe den of delicious. If you see this dish posted as a course, book a reservation. Book one anyway; there’s much to enjoy no matter when you go. A second location opens at Mercato later this year. One can only hope top toque/managing director-partner Brooke Kravetz will make this dish a menu mainstay uptown. (2795 Davis Blvd., Naples; 239-417-4466; oldvinesnaples.com)
Pretty in pink: Where would Barbie eat & drink? Super pretty eats, drinks and treats in Naples
Ori's Bakery & Cafe
The dish: Breakfast empanada, $4.50
JLB is always looking to expand her morning repertoire, and Ori’s is a great new find, especially for anyone living in east or south Naples neighborhoods and Marco. Everything is baked from scratch and served fresh from the oven by Ori Reed, a Portillo’s alum (yes, Italian beef is on the menu.) My breakfast? A delicious omelet wrapped in a flaky, warm pastry shell. (945 N. Collier Blvd., Marco Island; 239-450-4062; oriscafe.com)
Plan ahead: Italian beef, delectable pastries: Portillo's alum opens new bakery cafe on Marco Island
PJK Neighborhood Chinese
The dish: Dan Dan noodles, $24
Spicy but not incendiary and served in a gorgeous Instagrammable bowl that we were told was designed exclusively for PJK. They’re addictive. JLB also declares the spot neck and neck with Casa Cotzelli for Naples' most fun new restaurant. (835 Fourth Ave. S., Naples; 239-367-0300; pjkchinese.com)
Wolfmoon
The dish: Vegetarian croque monsieur, $18
While interviewing Executive Pastry Chef Clara “Cla” Fasciglione, who owns the cafe, we talked while she ate lunch, sharing a quarter corner of her delectable grilled-cheese-ish sandwich. Did I mention the from-scratch bread baked with premium flour? I started to regret my already set-in-stone lunch date following my Wolfmoon visit. Next time, I want the whole sandwich. The perfectly toothsome lemon-dill potato salad too. (27975 Old 41 Road, Bonita Springs; 239-494-3046; wolfmoon.co)
Yacht Club Subs
The dish: Waldorf chicken salad minnow, $12
New-ish. More like aware of it but never had a chance to go until a recent cat scan put me in proximity to this tiny sandwich shop hiding within Victoria Square. Oh that bread! Each bite was better than the next but don’t just take my word for it. Outside tables were full, and not that JLB is a busybody (curious is a nicer word), but I had to ask if everyone was enjoying their lunch. The consensus, all tourists: it was the best meal they ate during their Naples vacation. (1200 Central Ave., No. 104, Naples; 239-913-9230; yachtclubsubs.com)
Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. JLB tries to dine anonymously and always pays for her meals. This article is from staff writer Diana Biederman. Follow our critics on Facebook via BiteIntoSWFL and Instagram. To connect: diana.biederman@naplesnews.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Naples, Marco Island, Bonita Springs new restaurants' top 10 dishes
