Genius Spring Makeup Tips for Women of Color, Courtesy of Lupita Nyong'o's Makeup Artist Nick Barose

When Lupita Nyong’o steps on a red carpet, she does so much more than serve up beauty inspiration. With an assist from makeup artist Nick Barose, they push beauty boundaries, whether they’re redefining the classic cat eye with hints of silver, making us lust over a metallic blue lip look, or accenting her arches with “liquid gold”-like dots. But the breadth of Barose’s amazing work does not begin and end with 2014’s World’s Most Beautiful Woman. The makeup pro for nearly 20 years has one of the most diverse celebrity client rosters among Hollywood’s hottest beauty gurus. And with spring officially in the air, he’s sharing the secrets of five gorgeous looks he recently created for Lion actress Priyanka Bose, Zo Kravitz and more stunning stars.

“Spring makeup is all about a relaxed attitude,” says Barose, who adds that women of color should focus on formulas that make their skin tones pop. “Show off your complexion by wearing sheer liquid foundation, tinted moisturizer and by exploring different textures.”

Ros Cheeks & Lips

Says Barose, “A soft berry stain is a great way to add color, but still keep your look low-key.” He “tapped” YSL Rouge Volupt in No. 9 Careless Pink on the Big Little Lies actress’s lips. To create a complementary tone on her cheeks, he applied a bright berry cream blush which he muted with a layer of bronzer.

Glossy Lids

Adding a touch of lip gloss on top of your go-to neutral eye makeup elevates it from everyday to extra special, says Barose. On Nyong’o’s lids, “I paired long-wearing eyeliner that doesn’t smudge with just a dab of Lancme Le Metallique Metallic Lip Lacquer in Cuivre,” a bronzy tone. To tie the look together, he applied the gloss on her lips as well.

A Coral Pout

“Bright lip colors, especially ones with orange undertones, look great on golden skin like Gugu’s,” says Barose, advising that when going that bold, you should avoid “matte and opaque formulas which can look too heavy.” Instead, “opt for sheerer texture with shine,” he says. On his longtime client, he layered Neutrogena HydroBoost Hydrating Lipshine in Flushed Coral over the brand’s MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Classic Red for a customized color that “felt feminine, fruity, like a tangerine!”

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Cabernet Eyes

“Spring is synonymous with pretty,’ but if you like a bit of edge, add a red tone to your brown eyeshadow to take it from average to femme fatale instantly,” Barose says. He smudged Marc Jacobs Matte Highlighter Pencil in Fine(wine), a matte red eyeliner, along Tessa Thompson’s lids, noting that “There’s still enough brown visible that it’s very wearable.”

A Merlot-Stained Mouth

“Not aggressive, like red, it’s the perfect spring staple,” explains Barose, who loves the “earthy” color because it’s bright but muted. On Bose, the pro used It Cosmetics Lipstick in Brave. “The brown undertone in it makes the color feel fresh” he says.

“As a makeup artist, and a person of color, I choose to work with every skin tone - and age - because I pride myself on celebrating diversity,” says Barose (above with client Gugu Mbatha-Raw), adding that his inclusive approach is what makes his job “fun.” Growing up in Thailand, where he says, “traditionally, the beauty ideal is fair skin,” he’s relieved to see more diversity in beauty these days. “My philosophy is: Work with what you’ve got! When I’m with my fair-skinned clients like Brit Marling and Rachel Weisz, you won’t see me trying to make them tan, and vice-versa for my clients with dark skin.”

He continues, “I think in this business people tend to put you in a box. But to me, when you have the ability to work with everyone, you’re helping to break that mold.”

Which of these beauty trends do you want to try?

This article was originally published on PEOPLE.com