Why Plus-Size Model Philomena Kwao Credits Lupita Nyong’o for Kick-Starting Her Career

London-born beauty Philomena Kwao is a force to be reckoned with. She isn’t bothered by the modeling industry that is so focused on all things surface, but it does irritate her that not all surfaces are accepted if they’re darker or don’t fit into a size 2.

That’s why being a part of Alexi Lubomirski’s Diverse Beauty campaign alongside the likes of Lupita Nyong’o, Bethann Hardison, Pat Cleveland, and Herieth Paul was a major milestone in her career. With Kwao posing in a regal black-and-white photo, clad in a strapless black bra, underwear, and long silver pearls, the shot is a testament to the way she lives her life — with complete confidence and love for who she is.

We spoke to the model at the exhibition opening of Lubomirski’s Diverse Beauty project about how Lupita Nyong’o essentially kick-started her career and the liberation of being your most authentic self.

Yahoo Beauty: In talking with Alexi Lubomirski, the power of this exhibition, the photos, and the women in them is palpable. What does diverse beauty mean to you as both an idea and as being part of this project?

Kwao: For me, diverse beauty is an affirmation of every single person in his or her own skin. Curvy, short, dark-skinned, fair, black, white — whoever you are. But that we’re all beautiful in our own, unique right. It’s a great way to allow people to express themselves and remind them that you don’t have to look a certain way to be considered beautiful. This was quite liberating for me.

Inclusivity is important all the time, but it’s really having a moment in fashion right now. As a curvy model from overseas, what are your thoughts on how the industry is faring?

I haven’t been modeling for very long, as I just got into the industry four years ago. When I first started, I actually had no idea what “plus-size” meant because it’s a burgeoning category in London. So when I moved here and heard that term, it was new for me. And then being a woman of a darker skin complexion as well added another layer to it all. It was hard at first, but I’ve noticed over the past two years that people have started to speak up and speak out. The curvy community has really given me a voice because people want to see someone who looks like they do. They want to know their beauty is valid. Women of all ethnicities, complexions, and sizes want to be able to wear makeup and nice clothes. No one wants to go out and feel like they’re substandard or that there’s only one mold that they don’t fit. Diverse Beauty is awesome because there’s so many different women included to speak to every woman’s needs and kind of beauty. I personally haven’t seen something like this before.

It definitely feels like a one-of-a-kind book and exhibition.

Absolutely! And for Alexi to choose such a variety of women makes me feel good. I have little sisters, and I want them to be able to open a magazine and see their beauty reflected. That’s really important because they need to feel comfortable being themselves. Every woman should aspire to be unique, but that’s so hard for women of color because we don’t see ourselves out there.

And so many models are taking to social media to use it as a platform for their activism and the things that are happening to them backstage in real time. Do you think there’s an importance to models using their voices to speak about important issues?

I think authenticity is important. Honesty and realness in our industry matter. We have spent so many years looking at images of another beauty ideal and so many years taking in magazine covers and films that represent a beauty standard that we’ll never meet. People don’t realize that there are makeup artists and hairstylists behind the scenes — even in something as simple as a “candid” Instagram photo. So much of what has been put out there isn’t real at all. So I applaud social media for bringing that authenticity. Her hair looks nice, but she absolutely did not wake up like that. There were whole loads of people who are making these beautiful women “camera-ready” — because our idea of what that is stems from perfection. And you don’t have to use your voice on social media per se. You can do it through your interviews and in your work.

What would you tell a younger woman seeing inclusivity change little by little but not really seeing herself as much as one needs to in the mainstream and on magazines and runways. What would be your advice when it comes to self-confidence and believing in yourself?

My biggest thing is being your own role model. I love social media because it’s allowing everyone to find their own community. Even through the hashtags like #naturalhair or #darkskin there is so much support out there. When I was growing up, I didn’t realize that there was a whole world of people with my skin color because when I looked at the music videos and television, everyone was fair-skinned and thin. Learn to be your own hero, and don’t be afraid to reach out to people who share your passions. Build a core group of friends and a good girl gang. Find people who celebrate who you are. The world can be really isolating, so you need all the positivity you can get.

Who do you turn to for support and positivity?

My family, first and foremost. I was raised in London, but I’m very African — from Ghana. But I feel very connected to every person who sends me a message, comments on my posts, and lets me know that I’m inspiring them. Because they’re really inspiring me in return. To say I’m 100 percent confident is a total lie. It’s nice to speak to people and realize that you’re both worrying about the same things because it brings realness and trust to that interaction.

Is there one woman you look up to for inspiration in the industry?

Well, I believe that Lupita [Nyong’o] helped to kick-start my career. When I first came here, no one knew what to do with my hair. It has grown out a bit now, but I initially had pretty short hair. In the straight size world, you had Alek Wek. But in the curvy world — even now — you’re not getting many models with short, natural hair. So being dark, curvy, and not having any hair? Some brands had no idea what to do with me.

But then Lupita got popular. She was in more and more movies and fronting beauty campaigns, and I noticed that I started getting much more work after her arrival on the scene. She’s awesome. I feel like she was integral to commercializing the beauty of dark skin and short hair. It doesn’t always have to be high-fashion editorial and edgy. Our skin and natural hair can just be normal and pretty — the beautiful girl next door.

And you feel that you’ve seen a change when it comes to how artists work with you backstage?

Even the kinds of work and campaigns I’ve been able to book have changed. I wasn’t able to secure a lot of projects because they always wanted to put wigs on me. But now it’s “we love your short hair. You look like a plus-size Lupita.” It’s new and different. I’m happy about it.

What other projects are you working on?

I’m in a documentary called Straight/Curve that comes out early next year about beauty standards in the fashion industry and body positivity.

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