What a Beauty Editor Learned at Beauty School
Editor Alexandra Perron attended Bobbi Brown’s two-day basic training class. Here’s what she learned. (Photo: Henry Leutwyler)
Since I started working in beauty, I’ve realized that my friends and family expect a lot from me. I get requests for over-the-phone foundation consultations, asked to perfect smoky eyes before a night out, and most recently, volunteered to do my friend’s wedding makeup (I said no). The thing is, I spend a lot of time reading about makeup, writing about makeup, and watching and interviewing legendary artists about makeup. But applying makeup? I’ve never had that sit down, this-is how-you-do-it lesson, so I’m definitely not a pro. So when I was invited to attend the two-day Bobbi Brown Basic Training class — typically offered only to the brand’s freelance and counter makeup artists — I jumped at the opportunity.
I entered Bobbi Brown University with the same excitement I used to have on the first day of school — I couldn’t wait to meet my classmates, but mostly, I couldn’t wait to be turned into a makeup brush-wielding pro. This type of training is offered to Bobbi Brown counter makeup artists after they’ve been on the job for 30-90 days, and covers everything from the brand philosophy to makeup lessons to selling skills. At Bobbi Brown, the teaching aspect of the brand is just as important as the actual makeup. It isn’t about giving a woman a makeover, but about teaching her how to use makeup in a way that makes her look her best.
The majority of my classmates were the pros you encounter when you visit a Bobbi Brown counter at Bloomingdales, Macy’s, or Saks Fifth Avenue. Truth be told, I’ve never visited a makeup counter for an application. I’ve made a few purchases at department store counters, but now that I’m in the thick of the beauty industry, I do most of my research in the comfort of the office beauty closet (or my own bathroom). The makeup artists that I’ve interacted with over the years have always been backstage during fashion week or on set during a photo shoot, so it wasn’t until I entered the classroom that I realized the wealth of knowledge these counter artists have starting from day one on the job. “Counter artists learn so much because they are practicing 10 times a day,” says Rasa Janukaitis, an Education and Artistry Executive at Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, and the lead instructor of my two-day training. “If you’re wanting to get into makeup, starting at a counter is really the place to go.” Surrounded by these women, I felt a little intimidated but I knew that I was in good hands. Here’s what I learned at beauty school.
Lesson #1: Be observant of how your skin behaves.
There was a part of me that expected to have a palette of concealer in my hand from the moment I walked in the door, but there was a lot to be learned before I touched another face. First up? Skincare. A common mistake most people make is not taking the time to assess their complexion through each step of the skincare process. If you’re someone with dry skin, before your run out and buy a 7-step system for dry skin, try products one by one and see how they react with your skin. You might want a hydrating toner and serum, but need a lightweight moisturizer to balance everything out. During class, we were sent to the bathroom to wash our face and put together our routine. I have fairly combination skin that tends to be oiler when the temp passes 60 degrees, but I found out that my under eye area is super dry (which explains my struggle to find the right concealer formula). Now, I’m using a light gel moisturizer with a super hydrating eye cream.
Lesson #2: Test multiple foundations. When in doubt, go warmer.
We spent a lot of time learning about the brand’s various foundation formulas and watched as one of our instructors demonstrated how to properly match a foundation color. We were put in pairs and instructed to go through the steps to find our partner’s foundation color. This was it. I was putting makeup on another person’s face!
When it comes to foundation, it’s so important to test colors and formulas on your skin (sorry mom, I still won’t be able to match you over the phone). I tested three different shades on my partner, Claire, starting at the center of her face and going down to her chin. Once I eliminated the shades there were too dark or too light, I tested a second swatch on her forehead before confirming her shade. When in doubt, always reach for a warmer shade — it will correct any redness — before going lighter. At Bobbi Brown, the goal is always flawless, pretty skin. It’s not about changing the way you look, but about perfecting the skin and keeping it looking 100% natural. No one wants to look like they are wearing a ton of makeup.
Lesson #3: Use blush to brighten and lift the face.
Now for the really fun part: color for lips, cheeks, and eyes. The goal of blush is to brighten and lift the face, and to do this, you want to keep the placement high without letting it get too close to the nose. Start with a neutral tone (this should be the color your cheeks naturally turn when you work out) and then add a pop of color to the cheek. Blend the two shades together using a downward stroke so there is no noticeable difference. Watching a makeup artist work backstage, they make it all look so easy. It took me two attempts to get blush color right on my second partner, Lily. Thankfully, she was patient with me.
Lessons #4: Liner should always be darker than your eye color.
I was the most nervous for the eyeliner portion of the class. I had once been told by a makeup artist that I should never wear eyeliner — that I didn’t have the right eye shape. Imagine hearing this after years of always playing around with a cat eye flick! It was a major blow. But it stuck with me, and for the last year, I had avoided eyeliner at all costs and now I had to apply it on someone else. For Lily’s light eyes, I selected a deep brown gel liner and carefully drew a line across her lash line, thicker at the outside, thinner on the inside. This was the moment that I felt like I was really doing makeup. It turned out, I was better applying liner on someone else than I was on myself. (I’m still pretty proud of that fact.)
Over the two-day class, I practiced my skills on two different faces, but I left yearning to put what I had learned into practice — something that would require me possessing a wide range of makeup shades and more than a few guinea pigs — so I’ve resorted to perfecting my own routine. (I’ve even given eyeliner a second chance, since it turns out, I can wear it). “You want a customer to feel confident enough to do the look at home,” says Janukaitis of the makeup lessons the brand teaches. And that is exactly how I felt after this class.
Disclosure: Bobbi Brown is the editor-in-chief of Yahoo Beauty
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