Are Toners, Essences and Serums All the Same Thing?

From Harper's BAZAAR

Question: What's the difference between toner, essence and serum-and should I be using all three in my skincare routine?

Answer: The growing popularity of Asian skincare practices in the U.S. over the last few years has led to an influx of new products that require a bit more explanation than your standard cleanser and moisturizer. Cleansing waters, serum-mists, purifying essences-they all sort of look, feel and sound the same, so we asked Charlotte Cho, esthetician and co-founder of Korean beauty site Soko Glam, to break down the distinctions.

According to Cho, most Korean women follow a 10-step skincare routine, and toners, essences and serums-in that order-are considered to be steps 4, 5 and 6 (they come after makeup remover/oil-based cleanser, water-based cleanser and exfoliation). Toners, also called softeners, "help to balance your skin's pH levels and prep your skin with a bit of hydration so it can better absorb the following treatments," and can be applied with your fingertips or a cotton pad. "Essences," says Cho, "are the heart of the Korean skincare routine. If I had to pick just one of the three, I'd say don't skip on the essence!" They aid in cell turnover, leading to smoother texture over time, provide the skin with nourishing vitamins and for best absorption, should be patted on the skin with your hands. You can think of toners and essences as prep before the main treatment: serum, an ultraconcentrated essence designed to target your skin concern, whether that's dark spots, large pores, wrinkles or acne. Follow it up with your moisturizer and SPF.

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence Limited Edition, $229, sephora.com; Skin Inc. Pure Serum-Mist, $55, sephora.com; Korres Golden Krocus Ageless Saffron Elixir, $98, korresusa.com; Kenzoki Amazing Cleansing Water, $25, sephora.com; Fresh Umbrian Clay Purifying Facial Toner, $35, fresh.com.