What You Should Pay Attention to When Buying Shampoo

by Dianna Mazzone, TEEN VOGUE

If only your science teacher could see you now.

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Aside from keeping it far, far away from the Bunsen burner, chances are your hair isn’t exactly top of mind in chemistry class. But it turns out that even if you aren’t a product developer, there’s overlap in your lessons and caring for your locks. Shampoo has a pH level—and it can seriously impact the health and appearance of your hair.

If science isn’t your strength, here’s a refresher: pH measures the acidity (or lack thereof) of a substance. It’s judged on a scale from zero to 14—zero being the most acidic and 14 being the most basic.

In terms of hair health, the sweet spot for your scalp and strands is around a 4-4.5. Yes, you read that correctly. The optimal pH level for your hair is on the more acidic end of the spectrum. Who knew? According to Amy Halman, president and formulator of hair and skin care brand Acure, that’s the ideal pH level for your shampoo, too. “If shampoo is neutral at 7 or higher, it’s too basic,” says Halman. “It will strip the hair and even conditioner will never be moisturizing enough to replenish it.” Mind blown.

Get the level right, and you’ll reap the benefits almost immediately. “The actual structure of the cuticle of one strand of hair looks like shingles on a roof,” says Halman. “When you use a shampoo that is too basic, those shingles flare out, which leads to loss of elasticity, breakage, dullness, and the dreaded frizz. However, if your shampoo is more acidic it works to smooth those shingles of the cuticle.” As in, your hair will be less frizzy, softer, and way more manageable.

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"By protecting the cuticle structure with acidic pH, you’re arming your hair with the protection it needs so that the external factors that lead to frizz can no longer penetrate," says Halman. "You’ll find less need for silicone-based serums and smoothing agents."

Here’s the (minor) downside of all this pH talk. It can be tough to determine the acidity of a shampoo just by looking at it. Though some are clearly labeled with an exact level, others bill themselves as “pH-balanced” without being completely upfront. You know the customer hotline plugged on the back of shampoo bottles? Yep, you’ve finally got a reason to call it—most brands will be more than happy to provide you with more in-depth info. But, in the meantime check out our list below for five shampoos with hair-friendly pH levels.

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1. Acure Triple Moisture Shampoo

Halman’s healthy pH pick (this one falls within the 4.5-5.5 range) is paraben-free and enriched with everyone’s favorite moisture-rich ingredient—argan oil.


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2. Joico Daily Care Balancing Shampoo

This lightweight shampoo not only boasts a pH level of 4.5-5.5, but also a blend of amino acids that protect and strengthen strands.


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3. Sojourn Shampoo Moisture

The Sojurn brand is all about scientifically-sound hair care, and this moisturizing shampoo (with a pH that clocks in at around 4.5-5.5) is a prime example.

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4. DermOrganic Conditioning Shampoo

Also within the 4.5-5.5 pH range is this sulfate-free formula that works like a cleansing conditioner.

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5. Sebamed Children’s Shampoo

We know, we know, this shampoo is intended for the elementary-school set. But with a pH of 5.5 and an ingredient list that caters to even the most sensitive of strands, we can overlook the label—and so should you. Your hair will thank you later!

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Photos: Courtesy of respective vendors