Should You Really Put Quinoa on Your Skin?

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The beauty industry loves an “it” ingredient, from acai and goji berries to turmeric and matcha. We though we reached peak buzz with the invasion of superfoods like kale and chia seeds in your nail polish and serums this summer, but it’s time to welcome quinoa to the beauty aisle. It’s in shampoo and moisturizer and styling products, but does the protein-packed seed really have topical benefits? New York City-based dermatologist Dr. Sejal K. Shah is a little skeptical.

“Quinoa is packed with things that truthfully are good for your skin like vitamins, minerals, protein, antioxidants, and vitamin A and E,” says Shah. She says eating quinoa may be good for your hair and skin—antioxidants, for example, have been found to help acne—but when applied cosmetically their benefits are a little unclear. “I believe many of those benefits are probably based on the proteins in the quinoa.”

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Quick science lesson: when you link amino acids they become peptides and when you like peptides they turn into protein. Different amino acids and peptides have different affects on the body. They can help with hydration and retaining water, stimulating the skin to make more collagen, hydrating hair, and sealing in moisture. While amino acids and peptides can soak into your skin and hair, protein itself is too big to penetrate the skin barrier: “it’s like putting a steak on your face,” says Shah. “In theory, the amino acid and broken down protein from quinoa could penetrate, but there’s not a ton of data yet to support the claims of some of these products on the market.”

Shah sights Paul Mitchell’s new Ultimate Color Repair Products with quinoa as a line that might be more than just a gimmick. “Paul Mitchell has done a lot of research and has actual data to show they can break down quinoa to penetrate into hair, so these products are worth trying.” The shampoo, conditioner, and repair treatment claim to use the amino acids from quinoa to soak into the hair and bond like a magnet to create a protective shield. “If a brand doesn’t have evidence, it’s hard to justify how you’re getting any benefits from added quinoa.”

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Since quinoa-infused products seem to be based on protein, Shah says many other products with peptides—especially anti-aging products—could have a similar effect. She likes the Olay Regenerist line, made with amino peptides. For hair, look for strengthening ingredients with protein like keratin.

When consumed, quinoa may have a positive affect on acne. “Foods with a high glycemic load have been found to be worse for acne since they cause blood sugar to spike and trigger hormones,” she says. “Quinoa, on the other hand, is low.” Likewise, quinoa is loaded with antioxidants, which can balance skin pigmentation, so eating the seeds could result in a clearer complexion.

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At the end of the day, Shah says the best way to use quinoa for your skin might be as an exfoliant, creating a DIY scrub from the seeds. “Some companies have a lot of money to spend on research and development and data to prove their techniques and that’s great,” she says. “But generally we should wait till there’s more science. Quinoa beauty products are not harmful, but they’re gimmicky. People are always looking for natural ingredients that have benefits similar to synthetic ones, but using quinoa is just a way to make beauty products en vogue.”