Filter-Mimicking Makeup for a Selfie-Ready Look
Photo: Robin Derrick/Trunk Archive
Blame it on selfie culture. While less-is-more nude makeup looks have dominated the runways or the last few seasons, a more-is-more approach to makeup is dominating Instagram feeds and YouTube channels this summer. Likewise, techniques once reserved for stage performers and applied only by professionals are being re-branded for social media-driven masses, with hopes of appearing as flawless IRL as we do on our Insta feeds.
There’s strobing, a zeitgeist-y name for highlighting; “baking” or “cooking,” in which high points of the face (nose, cheekbones, forehead, chin) are caked with powder and left to “cook” for 30-odd minutes in order to erase the appearance of pores and set foundation for the long haul; and “clowning,” a contouring technique in which the face is painted like the clown of your nightmares, (rosy cheeks, diamond eyes) then blended into reality-star perfection.
All three techniques require a supernatural amount of drawing, an incredibly talented sill level, and far more primping time than most girls seem to have. They’re also perhaps not suitable for everyone. But no matter where you stand on these makeup trends — which all seem to replicate the doll-like perfection of the most airbrushed images — there is something to be said for giving the complexion a luminous, filter-like glow.
Thankfully, the latest crop of cosmetics is geared at doing just that — filter powders, luminizers, glow fluids, and blur lotions can help us achieve that Valencia or Mayfair effect without having to paint a full clown face. How can we use these new-school products in a way that looks like us, but in a better light? We consulted with makeup artist Misha Shahzada, who works with models like Kendall Jenner and Ruby Rose, and Troy Jensen, who glams actors like Eva Mendes and Rachel McAdams, for tips on how to use the newest products to capture an everyday glow.
Blurring lotions
These priming lotions can be worn alone or under makeup to help diffuse the appearance of large pores, fine lines, and dark spots. Some are made as thicker pastes and are better equipped to absorb excess oil, others are fluid lotions to help hydrate dry skin. “Many contain tiny light reflecting particles, which are extremely subtle but also help create a glow effect,” says Shahzada. She feels it’s important to use a light hand. “While the shimmer is subtle, it can be obvious if over-applied. So, less is definitely more with this product.”
Lumene Bright Now Blur Line & Pore Minimizer, $20
This antioxidant-rich lotion is better suited for dryer skin. It evens your skin tone and serves as a great primer for makeup.
Tarte Timeless Smoothing Primer, $40
A touch of this thick paste helps oily skin stay shine free (in humidity no less), softens the appearance of fine lines and pores, and serves as a skin-smoothing makeup base.
Kiehl’s Micro-Blur Skin Perfector, $35
This tinted cream is a great multitasker; It works as a primer or as tinted moisturizer that gives a hint of luminescence to the skin when used alone. Either way, it helps creates a lit-from-within look without adding shine.
Illuminizers
Made both in liquid and powder form, these complexion brighteners are equipped with complexion-softening light diffusers and can be used all over the face or in place of a traditional highlighter. Though, according to Shazadah, a strategic application is best. “While illuminators can look nice when used all over the face, I think the most beneficial way to wear these are in high points of the face —cheekbones, bridge of nose and cupid’s bow. Otherwise, it can appear too shimmery and overdone.“
Cle de Peau Beaute Luminizing Face Enhancer, $95
It’s easy to slip into sparkly territory that reads more kiddie than healthy glow when aiming for an illuminated look. Applied to cheekbones and temples as a last step in a makeup routine, this faceted compact of pastels creates a light-catching luminosity that doesn’t sparkle or settle into wrinkles.
Dolce & Gabbana The Illuminator, $52
This translucent powder spiked with pearlescent tones provides the kind of subtle all-over glow that adds a touch of flush, making us feel like an off-duty Jennifer Lopez.
Burberry Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid, $48
Part skin care, part illuminator, this versatile fluid highlights cheekbones, cupid’s bow and the bridge of the nose, serves as an illuminating primer under makeup, and can be swept atop eyeshadow to create a modern glossy lid.
Filter powders
As Shahzada points out, often filter powders are simply color-correcting powders, repackaged for a social media-loving audience. “These are finishing powders, so just apply as you would any other powder or bronzer — all over the face, sparingly, with a fluffy brush,” she suggests. Like with other glow-creating products, Shahzada notes that more is not more. “It’s important to understand that these powders don’t work in place of an actual filter, so with that said, it doesn’t mean apply ten layers of this stuff to create a serious filter looking effect, because it doesn’t work that way.”
This three-powder palette includes a shade for bronzing, one to brighten and another to balance bluish skin tones. Each shade contains light-bending properties to add an illuminated effect.
Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Natural Lighting Powder, $42
To make her skin radiate without looking shiny, Marilyn Monroe was known to layer powder and petroleum jelly. After applying base makeup, we achieved the same effect by lightly pressing this finely-milled powder on skin with the included puff.
Light-refracting primers
These primers can be worn alone, under makeup or mixed into liquid foundation to help give good light. When mixing into BB, CC, or foundation, use just a drop to help add an inner-lit glow — as much as a dime-sized amount can give the face an unnaturally metallic sheen. (We learned the hard way.)
MAC Strobe Cream, $33
Use this antioxidant lotion spiked with iridescent particles to brighten skin under eyes or to provide depth to makeup when blended with a few drops of foundation.
Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow, $55
This primer not only contains light-diffusing particles to scatter light and give skin a radiant effect, but anti-aging ingredients, like peptides to firm and camellia oil to hydrate.
Soft-focus foundations
The latest wave of powder foundations are highly buildable for sheer to full coverage, and contain a hint of glow to help warm the face. Many come with dual-surface sponges for light or heavier coverage, though Shahzada prefers buffing these foundations into the skin with a soft brush for a natural look. Jensen notes that powder foundations are typically better suited for combination or more oily skin types, while creams better benefit dry skin types. “Don’t get on a product trend,” he advises. “Instead, find the type of product what works best for you.”
Make Soft Focus Powder Foundation, $40
This versatile powder foundation contains light-diffusing particles to help balance skin tone. A light application with a brush provides skin with a matte finish while using the included sponge while wet helps provide more coverage.
Smashbox Photo Filter Powder Foundation, $42
The included double-edged sponge boasts a texture for sheer coverage and another for full coverage. Both sides enhance this foundation’s lightweight feel and matte finish.
Giorgio Armani Crema Nuda, $200
Though not technically a foundation, the buildable coverage that this tinted cream provides is a good option for those looking for a full-coverage CC with serious brightening power. And while we originally balked at the price, a very little amount of this amply-supplied cream goes a very long way, making it more economical than some of the tinier tubes we tried.
Cheek definers
The latest bronzers and blushes are baked with swirl luminizing hues to mimic candlelit warmth. When reaching for cheek definers with built-in ambient light, keep it real by skipping the use of a separate highlighter.
Antonym Baked Blush, $36
This certified organic blush does more than add a flush to cheeks — it makes them glow without looking glittery.
Hourglass Ambient Lighting Bronzer, $50
The problem with flat bronzers? They can make your cheeks look dirty — or worse, orange. The bronzer in this compact is paired with the brand’s tried-and-true photoluminescent pigments, for a result that truly warms the face.
Related:
I Tried This Weird New Beauty Trend: Blurry Face
