Copper: The Surprising New Anti-Aging Ingredient
In small doses, copper may have anti-aging properties. (Photo: Raymond Meier/Trunk Archive)
Exotic flower extracts, probiotics, and even snail secretions—when it comes to formulating the latest in breakthrough beauty products, it seems no anti-aging ingredient is off limits. But no matter how far out the skincare ingredient du jour, the line seems to stop with the use of heavy metals—many of which are toxic to the body.
A sudden onslaught of products made with copper (typically in the form of copper peptides and copper oxides) has us wondering: should we incorporate this ingredient into our skincare regimen? We enlisted the help of Dr. David Orentreich, a dermatologist and partner at the Orentreich Medical Group in New York, to find out why so many products are coming up copper.
It turns out that low doses of copper are non-toxic to the body—this is not a lead-in-the-lipstick sort of situation. “Trace metals such as copper, Iron, Magnesium, Zinc and others, are necessary in tiny amounts for normal human physiology,” says Orentreich. “Rich sources of dietary copper are found in shellfish, nuts, seeds and legumes.” What’s more, research shows that some copper ingredients can be applied to the skin without the toxicity concerns that plague other metals, since liver tissue prevents toxic accumulation of free copper ion in mammals. “Studies have shown that the copper peptide GHK-Cu (also known as copper tri-peptide), which is widely used in topical over-the-counter anti-aging and cosmetic products has been shown to be non-toxic,” says Orentreich.
And our bodies aren’t just simpatico with copper—the metal plays a sweet little role in the skin renewal cycle: It’s required to make collagen and elastin, the fibers that help keep our skin from wrinkling (collagen) and sagging (elastin). “We know that we lose collagen as we age,” says Orentreich. “With this loss of collagen and the extracellular matrix of connective tissues, we have tissue sagging and wrinkle formation. If copper is responsible for the synthesis of collagen and elastin in skin, it may help repair some of the skin’s framework.”
So far, early research on the copper peptides as an anti-aging tool is promising. A 1983 discovery showed that human copper binding peptide (GHK) can help speed up the healing of wounded skin. “Studies have shown that copper can inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi which in turn can assist in wound healing,” says Orentreich. Newer research shows that when topically applied, copper tri-peptides can penetrate the skin and accumulate in the body at beneficial levels. Facial studies have also shown that creams that contain copper peptides may help firm the skin and minimize wrinkles and dark spots.
It’s no wonder the ingredient is being tapped to boost skin products. The milky Sundari Neem and Copper Repairing Cream Cleanser is a hydrating formula that contains copper, minerals, and antioxidants geared to increase cell renewal in the skin. Kiehl’s Powerful Wrinkle Reducing Cream SPF 30 uses copper PCA (a copper salt) in efforts to both moisturize and support collagen and elastin fibers in the skin. PerriconeMD Blue Plasma, a gentle, no-rinse exfoliating treatment, includes copper gluconate to exfoliate the skin, as does the Omorovicza Copper Peel, an at-home treatment that mimics the intensity of an in-office chemical peel. Finally, the Osmotics Blue Copper 5 is an entire anti-aging skincare range created around the it ingredient itself.
While the burgeoning research that depicts copper as a powerful anti-aging tool is promising, Orentreich reminds us that research about efficacy and safety is nascent and that more independent studies are needed before we can declare copper peptides the next great anti-aging ingredient in skincare. Until then, should you want to incorporate a little metal into your anti-aging arsenal (and don’t have a known allergy to the substance), then copper may provide the perfect way to rock out.
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