How to celebrate Juneteenth with Phoenix chefs: 'It's a jubilee. It's about breaking bread'
Juneteenth, a combination of the words June and nineteenth, is a significant date for the African American community and our country. On that day in 1865, Union General Gordon Granger announced the end of slavery in Galveston, Texas, which was the last state to accept and enforce the Emancipation Proclamation.
On June 17, 2021, President Biden signed the bill to make Juneteenth a federal public holiday.
Food plays an important role in Juneteenth celebrations, especially red dishes that have symbolic significance, meant to signify the blood shed by the slaves and, according to Professor Michael Twitty, the color also had cultural significance to slaves from Yoruba and Congo who were brought to Texas.
Here in metro Phoenix, some chefs see Juneteenth is an opportunity to celebrate, but also to educate.
"We want people to know what Juneteenth truly means and what it truly means to the African American culture," said James Beard nominated chef Stephen Jones of The Larder and The Delta, "And have a country where people of all walks of life celebrate it."
Here are four ways to celebrate Juneteenth with a traditional meal in the Valley.
Chic Chef Cafe
Nicole Fields is combining Juneteenth and Father’s Day at her restaurant, Chic Chef Cafe, where she will offer a special brunch on June 19 from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. to celebrate fatherhood and culture.
"To me, after the historical portion of Juneteenth, of what it means to be free, I think food is the next most important thing related to that holiday," she said. "In all the years that we have been celebrating, the color red has been vital to the menu."
She plans to bring the color into not only foods, but also with watermelon cocktails, dipping sauces and hibiscus tea.
"I know watermelon is a stereotype, but watermelon is almost always on the menu or dinner table,” she said.
Other specials will include red beans and rice with smoked turkey and sausage as well as smothered chicken with cabbage and potato salad, “because it's Father’s Day and fathers like to eat."
Details: 2302 N. Central Ave., Unit 3, Phoenix. 480-525-1689, chicchefcafe.com.
The Larder + The Delta
“For me Juneteenth is a way to connect with my ancestors and my people over something that's not centered on pain and struggle,” said Jones. "Even though it came from pain and struggle, it is now something we celebrate. It's a jubilee. It's about breaking bread. I'm enjoying seeing people around the country giving it attention."
The Larder + The Delta is hosting two Juneteenth events on Sunday, June 19, one at 3 p.m. and another at 6 p.m. Tickets are $50 per person and can be purchased on the website. The events have a picnic theme and the menus are built around seasonal ingredients with a number of symbolic red dishes and drinks.
"We have lots of red — strawberry soda, strawberry pie, slushy machine. We also have a smoker." The meal will feature sweet corn fritters, jerk pork sliders and pineapple relish, chiltepin and strawberry barbecued quail.
The picnic is a collaboration with Jacob Cutino of Cutino Sauce Co., chefs Keenan Bosworth and Shane Jackson.
Jones plans to talk about Juneteenth history and what it truly means to the African American culture throughout the event. "We want people to see it, to experience it."
Details: 200 W. Portland St., Unit 101, Phoenix. 480-409-8520, thelarderandthedelta.com.
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Brunch·ish
Founded by Ra’Desha Williams, Brunch·ish started as a way to meet new people when she first moved to Phoenix from Nashville in 2017. Now, what began as a Meetup is a fully organized event series and the next event is all about Juneteenth.
“Juneteenth is important for the Black community, but this is the first year that it’s being identified on a federal, state and city level,” said Williams. “It’s to say we are still here, thriving and fighting for causes. It’s for people to have the expression of freedom beyond social justice. Lots is happening with the housing crisis and almost a recession. We want to amplify this moment and decide how to move through the future together.”
This month's brunch on June 19 is from 1 p.m. to 8 p.m. at Varsity Tavern in Tempe. Tickets are between $30 and $350.
Some of the menu items Williams has selected for the event are red velvet waffles, fried chicken, mac and cheese, watermelon and collard greens.
“Even though I created Brunch·ish for black people, we have a diverse crowd,” said Williams. “It’s nice to see people outside of Black culture celebrating Black culture.”
Details: Varsity Tavern, 501 S. Mill Ave., Tempe. brunchishdayparty.com.
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SugarJam The Southern Kitchen
Chef Dana Dumas is offering a combination Juneteenth and Father’s Day a la carte brunch called Brunch, Brims and Beards from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. with a special menu featuring her papa's brisket and biscuits, catfish and Southern grits in a rich Creole roux, pancakes, bacon cupcakes and mimosa tower.
For Dumas, Juneteenth is about awareness. “It’s about acknowledging the past and asking, what could we change today?” she said.
“As a retailer when I celebrate Juneteenth, it means something, because I’m making history as an African American woman who went from selling cookies at the farmers market to now having a 5,000-square-foot restaurant in North Scottsdale. Without emancipation of 1865, it wouldn’t have been possible. At the end of the day, I wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for the fight, blood, sweat, tears and the backs of my ancestors to allow me to be where I’m at.”
Details: 15111 N. Hayden Road, Unit 170, Scottsdale. 480-948-6210, sjsouthernkitchen.com.
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Reach the reporter at BAnooshahr@azcentral.com. Follow @banooshahr on Twitter.
This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Juneteenth 2022 in Phoenix: Best foodie celebrations
